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september 01, 2001
luna sea

My final installment of the Japan Travelogue.

Scroll way down for a complete list of my travelogues, assembled for your reading pleasure. ;P

It's been a long time comin'.

December 26, 2000:

I woke up this morning and got ready to go out as I have been doing for the past several days here in Akasaka. Today is December 26th. It's the day after my lonely Christmas in a foreign country, it's also the day before I'm leaving for Japan bound for California -- home. But more importantly, it's the day of the Luna Sea concert. This is the day that I've waited over 8 years for. And never in those 8 years would I have thought that I would be here to see them in concert. Live. In Japan. Their finale. Me.

inside the dome before the concert
the inside of the tokyo dome is really nice with lots of glass and lots of lights - here i am snapping a pic of the sign before i got seated.

When you sit back and think of the amazing things that took place in your life and the things you want to witness, accomplish, see and partake upon, there are always things that make you shake your head in disbelief because they will never, ever happen. And you know it. But to me, it's really finally happening. And it's even better than falling in love. Words cannot express what I feel today. What goes on in my mind, my heart, my soul.

Many people don't share the same enthusiasm for this band as I do but think of your ultimate favorite musician, band, idol, movie star, celebrity, artist, mentor and if you knew you would be seeing them tonight, you'd feel the way I am feeling now. It seems to be a dream yet I know it's not. Me and 50,000 other people will be there tonight, enjoying the first of their two final concerts in Tokyo before they are no more. It saddens me to know they will be disbanding after this because they will no longer be making the music that I love. Music that I've associated to so many people, so many emotions, so many events in my life. But all good things must come to an end, including this trip. And I can't think of a better way to end it than like this.

Not wanting to drain myself today, I caught the train to Ikebukuro to spend one final day in the stores there. There are other places that I didn't get a chance to see during the trip but I could feel my health waning and needed someplace familiar -- someplace that wouldn't require stress. So I took shelter in the giant department stores there browsing to my hearts delight. Seibu. That's the only place I needed to go today.

Once again, I plunged myself into the world of Japanese goods, gazing and looking at all the lovely products in the food section. There's something about being in the underground food levels that makes you feel like you know what it's like to live here. A certain vibe gets transmitted from other shoppers who are there purchasing groceries and edibles for their meals. I made sure I took in all the sights of the prepared foods - salads, bentos, tempura, agemono, nimono, desserts in every shape and form with all their deliciousness out in full display. Breads, foreign delicacies, local creations, specialties that customers rather buy than make. People all indulging into their food fantasies. The prices however brings you right back to reality.

The New Year is only a few days away and many people are out there working hard, shopping hard and scurrying about to get things prepared for it and the days of rest ahead. Unfortunately, I will not be here to ring in the New Year but I'm sure there will be other opportunities to do in the future. One can always hope.

I headed upstairs to walk around the clothing areas, the accessory departments and weaved my way through the multiple buildings that are linked one to another. You don't even realize that you've gone from one building to the next because they are so close together. I wanted to look at the bookstore today and I wanted to look at the neat calendars that are held in those cd rom cases that you can make stand upright on a flat surface. Calendars are everywhere and so many to choose from. Everything is adorable but I couldn't settle on one. I often wonder why we don't have the same types to choose from back home.

The Asahiya (? sorry it's been too long now) bookstore is on the upper levels of the depaato. They always have a good selection of English books and art books to look at. One thing I am always amazed at is how the Japanese culture makes an effort to keep their people abreast on everything else that is going on in the world - art, cinema, fashion, music, literature, science etc etc. -- thereby making sure everyone is up to date with everything and never behind. And it's precisely this reason that going to Japanese bookstores are so engrossing because they carry published matter in every topic that you can think of. Nothing quite beats the picturesque coffee table books on art though. And it really puts our bookstores here in the US to shame. Most evident are books with full colored pictures never skimping on quality or quantity. You don't even need to know how to read Japanese to gaze in awe at the books that they offer. And yes, they cost a pretty yen also.

I didn't have anything to buy today as my money is running low after surviving here alone for a few weeks. Besides, I'm sure I am going to buy something tonight at the concert. I went to the dining levels to find a place to eat because it was well past my lunch time. I did find a small eatery that offered omelette rice and that's what I settled on having. After spending some time here, I've finally grown comfortable enough to speak some Japanese without hesitation -- something very hard for Americans to do who aren't as well versed in multiple languages. But I feel good enough to do so without embarassment. Afterall, if you're not going to try, you're never going to get the hang of it. I noticed that most people in Japan are very open and receptive to your efforts in trying to speak their language. It's almost appreciative in return as they try to make sense of the jumbled mess coming out of your mouth. I always try to let people know that I'm not a native speaker so they won't have any preconceived notions based on my outer appearance.

After my meal, I decided to hop back onto the train heading back to the hotel to get some rest before the concert and to begin some light packing as I doubt I would have any energy to do so tonight after the concert.

Around 4:30pm, I started my walk to the Yotsuya Station from the hotel. The train station is only about 10 minutes walk from there but it was already getting chilly and windy. I clutched my wool jacket closer to me as I walked along the tree-lined streets of the New Otani Hotel passing all the hot drink vending machines that I'll probably purchase from later on tonight. From the Yotsuya Station, it's only a very short ride to the Suidobashi Station where the Tokyo Dome is at. Perhaps only 2-3 stops in between? But once I alighted from the train at Suidobashi, it was an amazing spectacle. The train station was packed with concert goers, ticket scalpers, fans done up in full garb and I have never seen so many Luna Sea fans in my life! The Tokyo Dome is right next to the station and only requires you to walk up this overhead pass but just trying to get out of the station itself was a chore. Scalpers grabbed your arm to see if you're interested in their tickets, people were outside selling unoffical concert goods, but it was the sight that I saw right outside the Tokyo Dome entrance that amazed me. Large groups of Slaves (Luna Sea fanclub members) congregated in groups with their magenta colored hair, black goth teased hair in long tresses, black lips and eyes, black lace, leather, women dressing as their favorite Luna Sea member, men dressing up as well. But the real shock was the amount of elderly housewives in the 50's who were there(!).

the real thing in my hot little hands
the original ticket, priced at 7,350 Yen but i got it for 14,000 Yen. yay me. ;P i was actually willing to pay up to 30,000 Yen for one. haha. nuts!

It was unbelievable. I was there. Yes, alone but there. I hung around outside looking at the people and trying to capture the whole vibe of the place via osmosis. I regretted not dressing up more for fun but I guess I had to make do with what my suitcase offered. After lingering outside for about 30 minutes, I found the right entrance for my seat and went in. They had a very tight security check once inside but I brought only my wallet and a small camera with me in my coat pocket so no one stopped me. With my ticket in hand, I think I felt like Charlie with his Golden Willy Wonka ticket. I made out what I could on the ticket and found the correct area where I'm seated. Most people have problems looking for their seats in big concert halls, imagine what it's like when everything is in Japanese?

Unlike concerts in America, the stands inside the concert hall itself all sell the same products. One stand after another -- they are all the same. Which is kind of good since you didn't need to waste your time hunting for stuff that you liked. I stood at one stand for the longest time deciding on what to buy, not being able to decide on what I could fit into my suitcase and what I really needed or didn't need for that matter. But when I finally stepped up to the stand, I couldn't control my mouth - it started ordering all these items I didn't plan on getting. Ah, but it's their final concert I justified to myself. :) I ended up with a large towel, a small towel, a neck strap (which I will never use), a concert book, a poster and a bag. What I really really really wanted was a tshirt but they only sold up to a size Medium (!). *frown* That just about limited tshirts to only small women or very thin men.

Figuring I shouldn't waste time, I went to the restroom and found a long line. The management somehow closed a men's room for women to use. Ah, very interesting. And to make a long story short, it was yet another squatting experience. But I didn't wet my pants this time.

Finally, I went to the area where I was sitting. They had a person at each level making sure people were going in with the right tickets. I handed my ticket to the guy and asked him to take a picture of me in English. Why I didn't ask him in Japanese was beyond me but I scared the guy who took off running with my camera to another colleague who snapped my pic. When they handed the camera to me, I thanked them in Japanese which left them both laughing. *shrug* Oops.

I settled into my rather small and tight seat. If my hips were any larger, I would have been wedged in there all night. On the right side of me, were two guys and in front of me was one tall guy -- probably the tallest guy I've seen in Japan so far. ;P Just my luck. And on the left side, it was still empty. I put my goods under the chair and took out my small Canon Elph. I HAD to snap a pic of the concert hall and where my seat was in relation to the stage. It's really going to be the only time in my life. I snapped twp pics before someone came to ask me to put the camera away. Oops. Again. Ah, who cares, I got two shots and that's enough. :)

from my seat looking onto the stage
one of the two pics I got "warned" for. but this gives you an idea of where i was sitting inside the dome. the seats aren't too bad and the stage is to the left with a long runway down the center floor. gah, look at them nosebleed sections way up there!

The Tokyo Dome. It's huge. I assume it's like Staples Center, although I've never been there before. And although my seats weren't super duper close, they were pretty good considering they cost me around $140 USD for them. But there I was. And I still couldn't believe it. It all seemed too amazing to be true.

The concert finally began at 6:30pm. And then there they were. Those 5 guys. Those same 5 guys I've seen only on video. Heard on on cds. Gazed at in magazines. Wondering what it would be like to see them live. Flesh and blood. There they were. I stood up with the rest of the people cheering them on...the noise became deafening.

And then they began to play.

And at that moment it's as if I turned into liquid, fusing into the scene, blurring into the moment. Nothing can ever take that moment away from me. It will forever be embedded in my mind and my heart.

I can't put down in words how the concert went but during the next 3 hours, I sang along to every song -- new and old. I stood there in a tight cramped space with other people who shared my passion. A girl finally showed up alone on my left side after the first few songs. And during an intermission, she asked me in Japanese who I liked the best out of all the members, I answered "Ryuichi" and she smiled and nodded in agreement. She told me she came from Yokohama for the concert and I told her I came from Los Angeles. "You must be a big fan," she exclaimed.

Yes, I believe I am.

Although I had to look at the huge monitor screen during most of the concert to see what they looked like up close, it didn't matter to me because I was there. Towards the end of the concert, they asked all of us to hold hands to the person next to us and on a count of three to jump up altogether. Many of us cried as they said their parting words, including me. They tossed their water bottles, drum sticks, and other goods into the crowds. As they began departing the stage, they started to cry as they said their final goodbyes, perhaps knowing that this is the end - the last time they will ever be like this with this crowd, here in Tokyo.

after the concert outside the dome
a final picture for the night as we were all leaving the dome after the concert.

As the concert ended, I couldn't believe that it was all over. Just like that. I found an official goods stand outside of the Dome and found a nice tshirt in a Large size. In Japan, the don't say Large, they call it L size or M size or S size.....just the letter, not the word. The masses lumbered towards the Suidobashi station again, as most of the concert goers used that means of transportation also. But it was chaos, the crowds pushed and shoved. No work hour rush could have rivaled what I went through that night. It was a sea of heads trying to get to the machine to purchase train tickets and then through the gates. And once inside the train, I don't think I've ever felt so many body parts against my body in my entire life.

And in that moment on the train, crammed alongside many of the other concert goers, I realized that no one had a clue that amongst them was this single girl who came all the way from Los Angeles to see her favorite band live. That this girl lived one of her dreams tonight. That she traveled so many miles, so many days, to be here at that concert and on this train.

A train heading for homeward bound.

::: :::

I actually do have one more installment to the Japan trip but it's all too similar to my other days there and don't feel it's necessary to write about it.

But here's a complete list of my days in Japan in consecutive order with their respective links from my journal. I will eventually put them all somewhere in another section on the site....someday. Some entries are divided into two parts, as denoted below:

 

I'm out. Whew.

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